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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.